A guide to sprinkler installation
© Copyright August 9, 1999
No part of this manual may be reproduced without the written permission from Sprinkler Supply Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Thank you for choosing Sprinkler Supply Co!
This booklet has been compiled with helpful hints to help you complete your irrigation project without unnecessary time delays and/or costs. It is designed so that each topic is step towards completing your sprinkler system installation. Of course, every step may not be applicable to your situation. Even though the diagrams shown herein are drawn according to the way we figure the parts for your sprinkler system, they are merely meant to be a guide and in no way imply that it is the only way. We hope you will find this booklet beneficial. You will notice that some of the words appear in italics. These words are defined in the back of this booklet. If you feel this booklet lacks information that would be useful, please let us know. Here are a few tips that my be helpful.
Cutting PVC with a hacksaw will work, but will produce many plastic burrs. These burrs, if left behind in the pipe, can clog up your sprinkler heads. In addition, they can make gluing PVC fittings together difficult. For this reason we suggest that you use a PVC cutter. Sprinkler Supply Co. carries an inexpensive PVC cutter that will cut up to 11/4" pipe.
There are basically three types of PVC pipe that may be used when installing a sprinkler system: CL200, SCH40, and SCH80. The "CL" in CL200 stands for class and the number that follows is the maximum pressure rating of the pipe. Therefore, CL200 is a pipe that will hold 200 PSI. "SCH" stands for schedule. Schedule pipe is classified by wall thickness. Therefore, SCH40 is thinner walled that SCH80. The smaller diameter the pipe in a schedule classification the more pressure it can hold. SCH40, 3/4" pipe can hold well over 400 PSI.
Using a glue and a primer will insure that you get a good bond between your fittings and PVC, however, if you want to save a step and have confidence in your gluing technic you can eliminate the primer when gluing fittings on lateral lines. If you don't use primer you'll find that the glue drys extremely fast so make sure to position your fitting immediately after gluing. Before gluing, make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. Apply primer to both female and male surfaces evenly. Apply glue in the same manner before the primer is dry and quickly push them together (while twisting). The glue will dry within a few minutes which will allow you to run water through the pipe, and will reach its full strength within an hour in warm weather. (Colder temperatures require a longer cure time.) Be aware that excess glue may remain inside the pipe and take longer to dry. If the water is run too soon, this glue may be caught in a valve which could cause damage.
To prevent your threaded fittings from leaking apply three to four even layers of Teflon tape to the male threads. Only threaded fittings on high-pressure lines, such as the sprinkler mainline, require Teflon tape. The PVC fittings manufacturer recommends twisting the threaded fittings together until they are finger tight, then turn one or two more times by hand to tighten completely. We recommend that you don't use a wrench with PVC fittings.
Using a trencher is encouraged. If you do not want to do the trenching we can recommend someone who will for a reasonable fee. We encourage laying the pipe at least 10 to 12 inches below the surface, but if this is a problem, just be sure that the pipe is deep enough so that water remaining in the sprinkler heads can drain back into the pipe. Multiple pipes may be placed in the same trench, but leave space between the pipes in the event repairs need to be made.
Flushing the system is important as it will clear the pipes of foreign debris that could cause problems later. We suggest flushing the lines before installing any type of valve or sprinkler head. Flushing lateral lines with funny pipe and/or sprinkler heads (without nozzles) connected to the PVC can alleviate debris from re-entering the pipe. Lines can be flushed immediately after gluing (see Gluing pipe and fittings).
The sprinkler design is the most important step in the sprinkler installation process, and takes many things into consideration. If you are unsure about how to design your sprinkler system, Sprinkler Supply Co. offers, as a free service, custom sprinkler designs. (Please call for more information.) Before modifying your sprinkler design please consult with us or a qualified sprinkler contractor. We will gladly redesign your system if needed. (We are not responsible for problems that may arise due to your modification).
If you do not desire to install your own sprinkler system, we can recommend qualified, reliable, licensed sprinkler contractors.
STEP 1 -- THE POINT OF CONNECTION
The first step in sprinkler installation is to attach to the point of connection (POC). The most common POC is a stop & waste (S&W) valve which is usually located in the
front yard. The purpose of a S&W valve is to enable you to turn the water on in the Spring and off in the Fall. It also serves as a drain when it is turned to the off position. If
a S&W is already installed it is usually directly below a 2" or larger pipe that is usually seen sticking up out of the ground. This pipe allows access with a key to turn the
system on and off. The pipe that the water flows through is usually found within 6" from that pipe sometimes below the surface. If you need to install the S&W valve follow
these steps:
1. Turn the water
off at the water meter with a wrench or S&W key.
2. Locate the water main that supplies your home. It usually runs in a line from the water meter to the home. The S&W can be placed anywhere along the main; however, we recommend installing it close to the meter on the house side of the sidewalk. The water main is usually five feet below the surface. Dig the hole big enough to work in as well as deep enough to place a bucket under the pipe to catch the water that drains when cutting the pipe.
3. Before cutting into the line, preassemble the S&W (see Figure 1). Teflon tape all threaded fittings from this point on up to your valves. Install the S&W with the arrow pointing in the direction of flow, otherwise water will exit out of the waste port.
5. Insert the tee into the location where the pipe was removed. Slide the rubber gaskets to-wards the tee and tighten the compression fittings. Tightening by hand is general all that is needed. Be very careful when using a wrench. It is possible to over tighten.
6. Place a solid object, such as a rock or brick, under the stop & waste valve for support. Also fill the area under the valve with gravel to allow drainage.
7. After turning your stop & waste valve to off position, turn on your water at the meter and check for leaks. If the water continually leaks out of the waste port of the stop & waste it is installed backwards.
8. Next glue a piece of PVC (generally 1") into the elbow and extend the pipe up to the surface. Also, for accessibility with a S&W key, place a piece of 2" PVC over the stop & waste valve and cap the other end at the surface with a snug cap.
In some cases the builder or plumber may have already installed the valve to control your sprinkler system's water supply. This may be a S&W valve as mentioned or a valve tapped into your water supply right after it enters the home. Much of the time they will run copper pipe from these connections. If a threaded fitting has been sweated on then a PVC Slip X Thread (ST) adapter is all that is needed. If the copper pipe has been crimped off, a pack-joint will be needed (see Figure 3). These are the steps to follow:
Once you've connected to your POC we recommend running the sprinkler mainline to all the locations that require a constant water supply such as manifolds, hose bibs, and drinking fountains; however, don't be concerned about installing these components until the entire mainline is ran. When the mainline is installed and the glue has dried, we recommend flushing out the line. After which you can proceed to install the valves and other components onto the mainline.
STEP 3 -- BACKFLOW INSTALLATION
The purpose of a backflow device is to prevent contaminated water, such as water that has been polluted with fertilizer, back into the culinary mainline. It must be installed on your sprinkler mainline after the S&W valve and before your first manifold. Your water company or city determines what type of backflow device is required based upon the likelihood of water contamination. Check with them for codes in your area.
Reduced Pressure Assembly (RPA)
STEP 4 -- SECONDARY WATER COMPONENTS
The physical disconnect (also called the 2' separation) is used when one desires to use both secondary and culinary water supplies. It should be placed in a jumbo valve box (see Figure 6). The culinary line requires an RPA valve as the backflow prevention device. We recommend marking the secondary supply line where it is visible. This is usually done with purple paint.
When using secondary water we recommend you use a filter. The size of the filter is determined by the Gallons (of water) Per Minute (G.P.M.) that run through your sprinkler system and by how dirty the water is. We recommend using at least a 35 G.P.M. filter with a 32 mesh screen. The filter can be installed in a valve box, but should be installed horizontally (see Figure 7). Doing so will allow the filter to drain when the screen is removed. The screen can and should be cleaned. Scheduling of cleaning will be determined by the water's dirt content. Since the filter's inlet and outlet are both greater that 1" a reducer bushing will generally be needed to connect the mainline. As with the DCA, we recommend connecting the filter to the mainline with SCH80 toe nipples. Like any threaded fitting on the mainline, it should be Teflon taped.
Pump Installation
In some situations a pump may be needed to boost your water pressure on a secondary source. The size of the pump is determined by the volume of water that will be used by one valve at a time. If you are using both a secondary and culinary source the sprinkler system must be designed according to the culinary supply. However, if you are only using a secondary source, you may have a much greater water supply and therefore be able to run larger pipes. Larger pipes mean of course that you need a bigger pump. For situations where two sources are used, usually a 1 horse power (HP) pump is ample. However, it doesn't hurt to get a bigger pump.
There are basically two different type of pumps used with sprinkler systems: Self-priming pumps and booster pumps. Self-priming pumps are used where you have no water pressure to the pump, such as sucking out of a well or canal. Booster pumps are used when you have existing pressure; at least enough to get the water to the pump. Installation of a self-priming pump will be the same as installation of a booster pump, except that you will probably use some type of flexible pipe on the inlet so that you can place it in the canal or well. In addition, you'll need a foot valve on the beginning of the flexible pipe which will keep the water primed up to the pump. For a booster pump, you can run pipe directly from the secondary source to the inlet of the pump. Connecting the pipe to the pump can be done several ways. You can use PVC, but if you do, make sure the pump is stable and that the PVC isn't in direct sunlight. Also, it would be wise to use SCH80 fittings and pipe instead of SCH40. Another option is using galvanized pipe and fittings. This will definitely provide strength, but can be more costly.
One device we recommend placing on a booster pump is a Loss of Prime switch (LOP). This will prevent the pump from running if there
isn't any water to the pump. It works by interrupting the power supply to the pump if there isn't any presure. (Usually it is preset to interrupt the power when the pressure
drops below 7 PSI, but can be adjusted.) Finally, when installing a pump you'll need to add a relay so that your pump will turn on when your valves do. The relay will have
both a line coming from you're power supply and from the (master valve screw in the) clock (see Figure 9).STEP 5 -- MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
Anti-Siphon Valves
In-Line Valve installation
Manual Operation of Automatic Valves
Using Reducer Bushings
Cut-off Risers
Using a cut-off riser is one way
Funny Pipe
Funny pipe is flexible so it can't be broken, can be cut to any length, and can save time during installation, especially if you need to place the head where the pipe isn't layed. This works great around window wells and for alternating sprinkler heads in the park strip. We recommend running the funny pipe no farther than five feet from the PVC to the sprinkler head. It isn't necessary that the tee (or elbow) be placed with the female threads straight up as it is with the cut-off riser (see Figure 18). However, keep the head above the PVC so that the water in the head can drain into the PVC and out the drain. It isn't necessary to Teflon tape the funny pipe elbows, nor is it necessary to use any type of hose clamp to keep the funny pipe elbows secure. The following funny pipe fittings are available: Tees, couplers, adapters, and male and female threaded elbows. The adapters and male elbows come in both ½" and ¾".
Flushing the lateral lines
Flush the lateral lines once they are connected to the valves. This is especially important to do before installing the automatic drains or nozzles in the heads.STEP 9 -- DRAIN INSTALLATION
Automatic Drains
Automatic drains should be installed with SST tees at the lowest spots on each line. To
Manual Drains
Spray Heads
Spray heads are used in areas where one desires more control of water placement. They range in coverage from 7' to 15' radius and pop up in heights of 2", 3", 4",
6" and 12". The nozzle determines the pattern and distance it sprays. The spray heads have a ½" inlet so you'll use ½" funny pipe connections or ½" cut-off risers.
Connect the heads to the lateral lines first, then screw the nozzle into the head to achieve the desired pattern. In most cases, we figure in fixed-spray patterns;
however, there are adjustable nozzles available for the difficult angles. The nozzles are marked with their radius (number) and arc pattern (letter). For example, a
12' half nozzle will be marked "12H".
Gear Driven Heads
R-50, XL, PGP, PGM, T-Birds and S700 heads are single stream rotors. They pop up 4", have a radius around 35', and a ¾" inlet. They have interchangeable
nozzles which regulate the volume of water thrown from the head. The radius is adjustable by turning the adjustment screw located on the top of the nozzle.
The arc is fully adjustable.
Impact Heads
Rainbird Maxipaw heads are impact (or impulse) heads. They pop up 4" and have a radius around 35'. They have interchangeable nozzles which regulate the
volume of water thrown from the head. The radius and arc are adjustable. This head is particularly good for sprinkler systems that use a dirty secondary
source of water since the oscillation of the head is not controlled by gears. The Maxipaw head can be installed using the bottom or side inlet, but we
recommend using the bottom. If you use the side inlet (½"), you should place a drain in the bottom inlet (¾"). If you decide to use cut-off risers, the bottom inlet
is ½" threaded further up the inlet.
Before installing any head, flush the lines out. This will prevent debris from clogging the discharge point. It is also better to place the head so that the cap is slightly higher than the grade. Doing so will help to prevent surrounding water and dirt from being sucked back into the head when the zone is shut off.STEP 11 -- ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Lay the wires in the same trenches as the main or lateral lines. Since the wire is made for burial it isn't necessary to run the wire in PVC or conduit, however we would recommend placing the wire under the pipe to prevent it from being accidentally cut. Always run one more strand of wire than there are valves in the manifold location. For example, a four strand wire would be run to a manifold that contains three valves. This will allow for one common, (usually designated by white), and three hot wires.
Wiring the Valves
Wiring the Timer
The Saturn Drip System
The Saturn system is a bubbler that covers more area by distributing the water with tubing. This system is ideal for conversions from sprinkler heads to drip. The Saturn bubblers comes in different flow rates ranging from 2 to 20 gallons per hour (G.P.H.) out of each port. 10 G.P.H. is the most common flow rate designed into systems because the flow rate is similar to that of spray heads. There are two different types of tubing: Solid (water drips out the end) and Laser Soaker Line (LSL). The LSL tubing has holes spaced every 6 or 12 inches. When using the LSL tubing you must plug the end with an end plug. These two types of tubing give the option of running a single line directly to a plant or weaving the tubing throughout many plants.
The Xerigation Drip System
R-50
The R-50 has a counterclockwise fixed stopping
point. This fixed position
can be identified by finding
the double ribs on the
outside of the body (see
Figure 27). Because of
this you need to install the
head so the double ribs align with your left stopping point.
The arc adjustment can only be done with the head popped up. First, slide the vandal collar down the shaft as
shown in Figure 28. With the vandal collar removed, you'll be able to push the nozzle down. The arc adjustment is then done by turning the nozzle (while
pushing down) clockwise to increase the arc (see Figure 29) and counterclockwise to decrease the arc (see Figure 30). Before attempting to adjust the
head, 
check to see what pattern already exists. (It is preset at
the factory at
180.) Once you've determined the existing pattern either add or subtract from it to obtain the desired arc. When finished replace the vandal collar. It's easier to adjust the
head while 
it is
operating, but can be adjusted as shown in the figures. If you change the nozzle in the R-50, you also need to change the bypass in the bottom of the head. This is done
with a flat head screwdriver as shown in Figure 31. Turn the slot so that it aligns with the desired setting. Ideally, the slot should be aligned with the number that corresponds to the nozzle.
S700
Like
the R-50, the S700 has a counterclockwise stopping position. To find this position, turn the nozzle counterclockwise until it stops. To adjust the arc,
turn the lock pin to the A position (see Figure 32). Then to adjust the arc, push down on the nozzle and turn counterclockwise to decrease the arc and
clockwise to increase the arc. When adjusting the S700 make sure you're at the opposite stopping point before adjusting. For example, if you want to
decrease the arc, turn the nozzle clockwise to the stopping position then push down and turn counterclockwise. For a full circle you'll need a full-circle
S700.
XL Rotor
The XL Rotor head has a clockwise stopping position, so when installing the head in the ground turn the head so this stopping point aligns
with your right boundary. To adjust the XL Rotor, turn the nozzle clockwise until it aligns with the hash mark on the riser (see Figure 33).
You should see a white indicator (see Figure 34) opposite the hash mark that is usually aligned with 180 arc position on top of the head.
To change the arc you must align the white indicator with the arc's reference number on the rubber portion of the head. This is done by
placing a small flathead or Phillips screw driver in the arc adjustment hole near the 180 mark (see Figure 34). While pushing down on the
screwdriver turn clockwise to decrease the pattern and counterclockwise to increase the pattern.
Maxipaw
There aren't any fixed stopping
points to the arc of the Maxipaw, therefore it doesn't
matter how the head is pointing when it is installed. The
simplest way to adjust the
Maxipaw is to adjust it while it
is running. The two adjustment tabs allow setting of the arc by simply
positioning the tabs such that reversing of the arc occurs at the 
desired point (see
Figure 35). To make the head water in a full circle flip the trip mechanism up so that it
doesn't hit the adjustment tabs. When changing the nozzle of the Maxipaw, it is also important to change the tension on the spring. If you use the red or black nozzle you
should place the spring in the B position (see Figure 36). For all other nozzles the spring should be in the A position. If you are having trouble with the head rotating try
changing the spring to the other position. Many times this helps.ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
You should winterize your sprinkler system whenever you don't need to water your lawn anymore. First, close the S&W valve. Next, if installed, open the ball valve(s). If desired, you can hook up an air compressor to the ball valve(s) and blow the system out with air. Open the bleed screw on the valves to help them dry internally. Set the timer to off position or unplug it. If a DCA backflow valve was installed, open each of the four test ports (quarter turn with a screw driver) on the side of the valve to help drain the DCA. If you have an RPA valve installed, remove it by unscrewing the unions. Do not leave the brass ball valves on the DCA or RPA closed throughout the winter.
TROUBLESHOOTING
S: First check to make sure the solenoid and/or bleed screw are closed. If they are closed try turning the valve on manually with the bleed screw then turn the bleed screw off. Sometimes this will turn the valve off. Another possibility is that there is dirt in the valve. Remove the bonnet (the top of the valve) and make sure that everything is clean. Also, check the diaphragm to see if it has been torn or damaged in some way. After reassembling the valve, if it still doesn't turn off please call us.
P: The valve won't turn on with the clock.
S: First, check the wire connections at the valves and the timer. If it's just one valve that doesn't turn on you can check to see if the problem originates from the clock by switching the wire from the zone in the clock that's not working to one that is. If the valve still doesn't turn on then the problem probably originates at the valve. Some possible cause can be dirt in the valve, bad connection at the valve, or a bad solenoid. The first part to check is the solenoid. An easy way to check it is to remove it from the valve and take the two wire leads and connect them to a station on the timer you know works. Turn on the station. If the solenoid is working the plunger in the solenoid will be pulled up into the solenoid. In many cases, taking off the bonnet of the valve and cleaning the valve out solves the problem. If you can't get any of the valves to turn on, check to see that power is being supplied to the clock with the transformer.
P: The valve won't turning on manually with the bleed screw.
S: First, there should be water leaking out of the bleed screw for the valve to turn on. If water is leaking out of the bleed screw, there is most likely dirt or some other object in the valve. Try taking the valve apart and cleaning it out.
P: Water is leaking out of the bleed screw when I turn it on manually.
S: This is normal. Water must leak out of the bleed screw to open the valve.
P: I want to replace a valve without tearing up the manifold.
S: If the body of the valve you want to replace is still in good shape then you may only need to replace the guts of the valve. Many times you can just remove the old guts and replace it with new guts of the same model. If you need to remove the body, there's really nothing you can do but tear up the manifold. In this case using unions or slip fixes can make assembling it back together easier.
P: Water is leaking out of one of the check valves on my backflow preventer.
S: The four little valves sticking out of the DCA/RPA are test ports. Sometimes they may not have been closed when manufactured. Use a flathead screw driver and turn the valve on the test port until the water stops leaking.
P: Water continually leaks out of the bottom of the RPA.
S: This is a good indication that some debris is in the RPA and isn't letting the check valve close. Open it up and remove the object.
P: My glued or threaded joint is leaking.
S: For threaded fittings the best thing to do is to unscrew the fitting and re-Teflon tape it. For glued fittings it is best to cut the fitting out and insert a new fitting.
P: I've tried to turn down the water (adjust the radius) in the spray head, but it won't work.
S: Some nozzles require that the screen is installed to turn the flow down or make any adjustment to the radius. Make sure the screen is present.
P: My gear driven/Maxipaw head doesn't rotate or rotates one direction then stops.
S: Sometimes, the head stops rotating because there isn't enough water flowing through the head. In this case, you can change the nozzles so the head requires less water to operate. The R-50 also allows you to specify how much water it expects to go through the head. By changing this flow rate it causes the head to rotate at different speeds. Increasing the speed often help the head to rotate better. (See Instructions on Head Adjustment).
P: The automatic drain leaks a little when the pressure is on.
S: There is probably some debris in the drain. Try to clean it out or replace it with a new drain.
GLOSSARY
Backflow -- a situation when water contained within you sprinkler lines returns to your supply line.
Bleed Screw -- a screw located on the top of many valves that make it possible to bleed air out of the valve. This also makes it possible to turn the valve on manually.
Bonnet -- the top part of the valve. Most can be removed by unscrewing them or by removing the screws that hold it in place.
Booster Pumps -- increase the water pressure of a line that already has some pressure existing.
Cl200 -- a class of pipe that will hold 200 PSI.
Culinary -- refers to a source of water that you can drink.
Cut-Off Riser -- a part that makes it possible to connect the head to the PVC at different heights.
Diaphragm -- a part within a valve that prevents the water from flowing through the valve.
Female -- refers to a fitting that has something fit or screw into it.
Foot valve -- a valve that can be placed on a suction pipe to prevent water from draining out of the pipe.
Funny Pipe -- a flexible tube that can be cut to length that connects the head to the PVC. Can make head placement easier.
Glue -- used to connect PVC slip fittings and pipe together.
High-Health Hazard -- classification of areas where the drinking of seconday water may pose a high risk to health.
Lateral Lines -- lines that come out of the valves.
Loss of Prime Switch -- device that prevents a self-priming pump from turning on if the pressure has dropped below an unacceptable level.
Low-Health Hazard -- classification of areas where the drinking of seconday water is a lowrisk to health.
Mainline -- line that feeds the valves.
Male -- refers to a fitting that fits or screws into something.
Manifold -- a collection of valves in one location.
Nozzles -- regulate the flow and/or pattern of the heads.
Pack-Joint -- brass connection to go from unthreaded copper pipe to PVC.
Physical Disconnect -- a collection of parts that enable switching from a secondary to a culinary source.
POC -- stands for point of connection.
Primer -- a cleaner to be applied to PVC when installing the mainline before applying glue.
Quick Coupler -- a valve that can be removed and replaced easily.
S&W -- a valve that allows the water to be turned on and off. Also drains the mainline.
SCH40 -- a thickness of pipe. In smaller sizes, the pipe can hold over 400 PSI.
SCH80 -- a thickness of pipe which is thicker than SCH40.
Secondary -- refers to a water source that is not used for drinking.
Self-Priming Pumps -- pumps that will hold a prime so that water is always at the inlet of the pump.
Solenoid -- an electrical device on the valve that causes the
diaphragm to open and close when power is applied.
Stop & Waste -- a valve that allows the water to be turned on and off. Also drains the mainline.
Teflon Tape -- tape that when wrapped correctly on threaded fitting prevents leaking. Teflon tape is only necessary on the mainline.
Valve -- device that can control the flow of water.